After seeing this artwork on line I decided to try and copy the colour scheme.
I started
off by giving Batman a zenithal prime using an airbrush, then a coat of
Vallejo’s Ivory to the chimney stack.
I didn’t
have a suitable reddish brown for the brick colour, for this I mixed some
colours. I used Citadel’s Skrag Brown mixed with Vallejo’s Burnt Red and then
applied it to the bricks using a sponge in order to get a nice texture and it
rarely goes into the gaps between the bricks. The sponge won’t get into the area
at the top of the stack so I used a drybrush to apply the paint there.
The trousers
were base coated with Scale 75’s Walnut, the top of the outfit, let call it the
jumper J was base coated with Citadel’s
Warpfiend Grey. The cape, cowl and gloves were base coated with Russ Grey. Bat
symbol was given a rough coat of Black which will be tidied up later on. The
skin was given a coat of Citadel’s Cadian Flesh. The smooth area at the top of
the chimney was given a coat of Vallejo’s Buff.
I prepared a
few paints on the palette ready to paint the cloak.
Starting
from the left and going right we have:-
#1 - Fenris
Grey
#2 - 50:50
Fenris Grey and Russ Grey
#3 - Russ
Grey
#4 - 90:10
Russ Grey and Vallejo’s German Grey
#5 - 80:20
Russ Grey and Vallejo’s German Grey
This shows
the mixed tones #1 - #5
This picture
shows how the shading works going into the recesses or folds of the cape and
have been separated on purpose just for explanation. From left to right we have
Mix #1 to Mix #5 only.
Mix #1 (or
Fenris Grey) is only used for the extreme highlights.
Lay down the tones in order from the top of
the fold and work with darker tones towards the bottom of the fold and then
begin to work lighter up the other side of the fold. You should have the
makings of a nice transition in tones.
When laying
down the tones as above you may have time to blend the colours that are next to
each other so you end up with a nice smooth transition. If the tones are too
far apart you can always make up intermediate tones by mixing them together.
Mix #2 is
applied to the top of each fold.
Mix #3 is
added a bit lower down each side of the fold and while that is still dry apply
Mix #4 next to it and try and blend them together.
Mix #5 is
added to the deepest part of the fold and blended in to the previous layer. Mix
#1 is applied to the very top of the fold, if you need to apply another coat of
Mix #2 directly next to it and blend together.
I shaded the
jumper with a 60:40 mix of Warpfiend Grey and German Grey and applied it to the
folds on the arms at the elbow and above the bicep and underlined the chest.
First
highlight of the jumper with a 50:50 mix of Warpfiend Grey and Slaanesh Grey.
Second highlight
of the jumper using Slaanesh Grey. Highlights should be at the top of the folds
at the elbow, stomach and the top area of the chest.
To add a bit
of interest to the bricks I used Ammo by Mig’s Streaking Grime Effect. Because we
are working on a small area using the grime effect is a lot faster than
preparing some oils.
This is an
enamel based product so I’ll use a different brush. Use an older brush that has
lost its point because there is no need to be particularly tidy with it because
it will stay ’workable’ for a while. Make some streaks and clean the brush in
some enamel thinners of white spirit.
Whilst the
brush is still moist with thinners feather the edges of the streaks, first on
one side then the other side. This will leave the streak slightly stronger in
the middle. I also added patches of white using a thinned down Ivory to look
like the mortar had run down the stack.
Exactly the
same process using the streaking grime effect.
First
highlight of the trousers using Scale 75’s Walnut mixed with a little bit of
Ivory. The belt was given a coat of Scale 75’s Orange Leather
I used a
darker tone for the folds in the trousers by adding some Scale 75’s Brown
Leather to the Walnut.
Another
highlight to the trousers by adding a little more Ivory to the previous mix.
The belt was
shaded using Brown Leather.
The belt was
given a highlight using Scale 75’s Iroko.
The Bat
symbol was tidied up using German Grey mixed with a little black to define the
outside and then filled in with pure German Grey.
Using a
thinned German Grey and Black mix I darkened the eye sockets added a line each
side of the nose and defined the shapes on the belt by outlining each pouch of
the belt.
I used a
thin down black for the bottom half of the bat symbol and feathered it out to
get a slight transition from the top half. The skin was highlighted with a 50:50
mix of Cadian Flesh and Kislev Flesh, then highlighted again by adding some
Flayed One Flesh to the mix.
Using Fenris
Grey with a little Ivory, I picked out the lines on the forehead.
And finished...